The Boat Racing Festival

There is some variation on what today's holiday signifies. The Lao PDR Guide 2009 says today signifies the end of Asian lent, but calls it the Boat Racing Festival. Several of us checked out Festival Central on the Mekong in the heart (and heat!) of Vientiane yesterday and the place was indeed jumping, but not in an over-the-top Mardi Gras way; more like your midwestern county fair. We walked the long grass and gravel beltway between the street and the River. It was covered with vendors of every sort and restaurants for every taste. A couple of the kids tried the carnival games and our eight-year old threw darts, popped three balloons and won an orange soda. The rest of us took in the action with some yogurt and Lao kettle corn and lots of water. We did see a few long racing boats with large crews skim by, but never together. They looked like they were practicing for a race to come later.

My hairdresser (I actually got the nerve to get a haircut Saturday at the little place next to my guesthouse) says tonight is make-a-wish night to Buddha to speed dearly departed relatives to Nirvana, bypassing endless time as a spirit or in reincarnation. Thousands of little straw and banana leaf boats covered in flowers, candles and incense will be set forth on the Mekong as appeasement to the spirits of the River to aid in their journeys.

Last night there were candles lit around all the genie houses (homes of the "phi" or spirits who have been waylaid) and there were lots of fireworks. Offerings were made to keep the phi from being too mean or mischievous. As Animism happily combines with Buddhism here, I'm not sure which goes with which. It doesn't seem to matter, as long as your intentions are sincere.